Things you can hear are wrong with your car...
This week we'll look at some of the things you can hear are wrong with your car. As you drive you can hear many sounds in your car and when something is not right, you will usually hear it. It just doesn't sound right or different from how it normally sounds.
As with any car problem, the causes can range from a mere inconvenience to major repair. Here are some things to look for when you have a car that doesn't handle or respond properly.
You should note that these are the most likely causes of a particular problem, but not necessarily the cause of the problem you are experiencing. Some of the possible causes listed may not even apply to your vehicle.
Thumping and Clunking
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Clunking noise during braking:
Possible causes:
When you step on the brakes there is a clunking noise. Depending on how fast you are going and how hard you ally the brakes changes the intensity of the noise. The sound may or may not travel up through the steering column.
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There are worn steering system components: Inspect steering system and replace worn parts as required.
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The suspension system is loose or worn: Inspect suspension system and replace worn parts as required.
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The disc brake caliper is not mounted properly: Repair or replace mounting hardware as required.
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Some of the brake hardware is damaged or missing: or replace disk pad mounting hardware.
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Clunking from under the car when gears change:
Possible causes:
With either a manual or automatic transmission, when you shift gears there is a momentary hesitation and then a clunking noise. The noise could come from the front or back of the vehicle. This noise started gradually and became worse over time.
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Worn CV-joints: Replace CV-joints.
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Worn U-joints: Replace U-joints.
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The differential unit may have too much backlash: Check and adjust differential backlash or replace differential. (Generally not a DIY job)
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The engine's idle speed may be set too high: Check and adjust ignition timing.
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Clunking from under the car while accelerating:
Possible causes:
When you accelerate there is a momentary hesitation and then a clunking noise. The noise could come from the front or back of the vehicle. Sometimes the noise occurs if you step on the gas or let up while the car is moving. Many times you can feel the noise in the body of the car. This noise started gradually and became worse over time.
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Shock absorbers are bad: Replace shocks or shock mounts.
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Shock mounts are broken: Replace shock mounts.
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Loose or broken exhaust parts: Repair or replace exhaust parts as required.
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Loose, worn, or broken motor and/or transmission mounts: Replace broken mounts.
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Clunking from the engine that worsens when engine speed increases:
Possible causes:
When you press on the gas pedal, the engine makes a clunking noise. The noise increases as you press harder on the gas pedal. The noise is there whether you are in gear or in neutral. Sometimes the noise is not noticeable when you are letting the engine idle but occurs as soon as you press on the gas pedal. Normally, the problem begins gradually, but the noise may go unnoticed. As the problem worsens, the noise gets louder.
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Worn engine bearings: Replace engine bearings or engine.
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Broken engine parts: Inspect accessory (P/S pump. A/C compressor, etc.) for loose or broken parts, replace as required.
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Loose or missing flywheel-mounting bolts: Tighten or replace mounting bolts.
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Grinding, Squealing, Scraping and Growling
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Growling noise from air conditioner:
Possible causes:
The engine runs well and makes no unusual noises until you turn on the air conditioning. Then you hear a growling or knocking noise only when the air conditioning is on. The noise will get louder and more noticeable over time.
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The bearings in the air conditioning compressor are bad: Replace air conditioning compressor.
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The clutch on the air conditioning compressor is weak or worn: Replace air conditioning compressor clutch.
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The air conditioning compressor is bad: Replace air conditioning compressor.
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A control valve in the air conditioning system is bad: Replace air conditioning control valves.
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Things you can hear are wrong with your car...
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The brakes squeal when they are applied:
Possible causes:
When you are step on the brakes a shrill squealing sound is heard. It could come from the front or rear of the vehicle but most often it comes from the front. Sometimes there is a pull to one side or the other. This noise may or may not have started gradually. Sometimes the noise goes away but the problem still remains.
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There is dirt on the brake rotors, drums, pads, and/or shoes: Clean and sand brake pads/shoes and rotors/drums. These will probably return in a week or two.
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The brake pads and/or shoes are worn: Replace the brake pads/shoes as required.
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The brake pads were overheated and are now glazed: Clean and sand brake pads/shoes and rotors/drums.
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The disc brake calipers were mounted incorrectly or have come loose: Repair or replace mounting hardware as required.
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Audible Wear Indicators are contacting the rotors: Replace the brake pads
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The transmission grinds while shifting gears:
Possible causes:
The clutch pedal and gearshift move normally but when you shift into a gear and release the clutch pedal, you hear a grinding noise and feel a vibration through the gearshift handle. This problem starts gradually and gets worse over time.
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The clutch needs to be adjusted: Adjust clutch.
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The clutch is worn: Replace clutch assembly.
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There is internal damage to the transmission: Overhaul transmission.
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The shift linkage needs to be adjusted: adjust shift linkage.
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Tires squeal:
Possible causes:
The tires squeal whenever you make a normal turn. This problem may or may not get worse over time.
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Low tire pressures: Adjust tire pressures to specification.
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Worn tires: Replace tires.
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Wheels out of alignment: Get wheels aligned.
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Squealing from engine while accelerating:
Possible causes:
A squealing sound is heard when you step on the gas, slow down or turn a corner. The noise may occur more frequently when the air conditioning is turned on. This noise is getting worse over time.
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The drive belts are slipping: Replace drive belts.
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The drive pulleys for some engine accessories are misaligned: Repair or replace pulleys as required.
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You have turned the steering wheel to the limits: Back off the steering stops.
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The drive belts are loose: Tighten drive belts.
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Scraping from the rear of the car while moving:
Possible causes:
The noise is heard only while you are moving. There doesn't seem to be anything wrong except for the noise. You notice the noise gets worse, the faster you drive. This problem can occur suddenly or gradually depending on its cause.
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Your exhaust system is broken and is dragging on the ground: Repair or replace exhaust system as required.
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A tree branch or some thing else is caught under your car and is dragging or rubbing against your tires: Remove the offending object from under the car.
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Your parking brake is on: Release parking brake.
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Your brakes are dragging: Repair or replace brake parts as required.
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Your brake drum backing plates are rubbing against the brake drum: Lubricate backing plate or repair as required.
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You locked your kids in the trunk again: Open trunk and release kids.
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Scraping from the rear of the car that is heard when braking:
Possible causes:
A scraping noise is heard when you apply the brakes. The brakes may or may not seem to be working normally and the noise may or may not come and go. The problem usually begins gradually and gets worse over time. As the problem gets worse, the noise gets louder.
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Brake pads and/or brake shoes are worn out: Replace the brake pads/shoes as required.
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Brake drums are out of round or warped: Machine or replace rear brake drums.
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Bad rear drum brake wheel cylinder: Replace or rebuild both rear wheel cylinders.
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The Windshield wipers make a squealing noise:
Possible causes:
You turn on your windshield wipers and they squeal as they move across the windshield. This problem can occur occasionally or happen every time the wipers are turned on. In addition, the problem may suddenly appear or may gradually worsen.
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Your wiper blades are too hard and need to be replaced: Replace wiper blades.
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Your wiper blades are worn and need to be replaced: Replace wiper blades.
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The windshield is too dry: Wait until it rains to use the wipers or wet windshield.
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Your wiper blade arms need to be replaced: Replace wiper arms.
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Things you can hear are wrong with your car...
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Brakes make a rhythmic scraping noise at low speeds:
Possible causes:
As you step on the brake pedal to stop while moving at low speeds, you notice a rhythmic scraping noise. As the car slows, the frequency of the noise also slows. The noise doesn't seem to be there when braking from high speeds. Sometimes the noise is more noticeable than at other times. The problem usually occurs suddenly.
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Your brake rotor is badly warped: Machine or replace brake rotors.
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Your front wheel bearings are badly out of adjustment: Adjust or replace wheel bearings as required.
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Your brake drums are badly out-of-round and need to be replaced: Machine or replace brake drums.
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There is a scraping noise from the transmission:
Possible causes:
You notice a scraping, grating, or growling noise from the car whenever you start to move forward or in reverse. The noise seems to get worse the longer you drive the car. The noise is not there when you have the car in park or neutral. You don't notice any other problems with the transmission.
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The transmission's fluid level is low: Fill transmission fluid to proper level.
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The fluid in your transmission is contaminated: Flush transmission fluid and replace transmission filter.
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You have an internal problem in the transmission: Overhaul transmission.
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Your torque converter is bad: Replace torque converter.
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The transmission's oil filter is clogged: Flush transmission fluid and replace transmission filter.
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Your flex plate (flywheel) is loose or damaged: Tighten or replace flex plate.
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Alternator makes a squealing noise:
Possible causes:
There is a squealing noise coming from the engine whenever you increase the speed of the engine. Upon inspection, you find the noise is coming from the alternator. The alternator seems to be working properly because the battery stays charged and the charging warning light doesn't come on.
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Loose or damaged alternator drive belt: Tighten or replace alternator drive belt.
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The alternator's internal bearings are worn: Replace alternator or bearings.
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The alternator's drive pulley is loose or damaged: Tighten or replace alternator pulley as required.
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Popping, Clicking and Knocking
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Engine hesitates and a popping is heard from the engine:
Possible causes:
Whenever you step on the gas pedal, the car may hesitate and have general lack of power. The popping noise confirms that something is not right. The noise only happens when you press on the gas pedal. This problem may appear suddenly or get worse over time. You may notice the problem when the engine is hot or cold or when you are low on fuel.
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You may have a dirty air filter: Replace the air filter.
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The spark plugs may be dirty or worn: Clean and regap spark plugs. Replace spark plugs.
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The ignition wires may be bad: Replace ignition wires.
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There may be some other type of ignition problem: Check distributor cap or rotor. Ignition module may be bad.
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The engine may have mechanical problems: Check compression to determine engine condition.
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Clicking from the front while turning a corner:
Possible causes:
Everything seems fine while you are driving your car except when you go around a corner, and then you hear a clicking noise from one side of the car. Pay attention to when the sound occurs, as it is very helpful when trying to identify what is causing the problem. Normally the problem begins gradually, but the noise may go unnoticed. As the problem gets worse, the noise gets louder.
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Brake pads/shoes are loose or broken: Replace the brake pads/shoes as required.
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Loose or bad front wheel bearings: Replace bad wheel bearings. Repack and retighten loose wheel bearings.
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Worn CV-joints (normally the outer joints): Replace CV-joints.
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Loose wheel covers (hub caps): Tighten or replace wheel covers.
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There is a large stone, a nail, or some other hard object caught in a tire: Remove foreign object(s) from tires.
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Clicking noise during braking or turning:
Possible causes:
A distinct click that increases in speed as you increase the speed of the car. The clicking seems to occur whenever you apply the brakes and/or make a turn. If the clicking disappears when you release the brake, the cause is undoubtedly related to the brakes. This problem gradually becomes noticeable and can develop into a major problem.
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Loose or bad front wheel bearings: Replace bad wheel bearings. Repack and retighten loose wheel bearings.
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The brake pads are loose in their mounting: Tighten or replace brake pads as required.
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CV-joints are worn: Replace CV-joints.
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There is a hard object caught between the brake pads and the rotor: Remove foreign object(s) from brakes.
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Things you can hear are wrong with your car...
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Knocking sound under hood:
Possible causes:
You hear a knocking sound under the hood, especially when accelerating.
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Engine knock due to gas octane rating too low: Use a fuel with a higher octane rating.
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Air filter clogged: Replace the air filter.
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Tune-up issue, such as timing set improperly: Check and reset timing as required.
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Engine makes a clicking noise when idling:
Possible causes:
When the engine is idling you hear a clicking noise. Most times it gets louder as engine rpm increases. The problem may become more noticeable as the engine warms up. The noise may or may not get worse over time.
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Your valves need adjusting: Adjust valves or replace hydraulic lifters as required.
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The engine is low on oil: Fill engine oil to specified level.
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The engine's oil pressure is low: Determine cause of low oil pressure and repair as required.
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Popping noise from exhaust:
Possible causes:
Every time you step on the gas you hear a popping noise from the exhaust. For the most part the engine seems to be running well, but you notice a decrease in gas mileage. The louder the noise, the worse the problem is.
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You have a vacuum leak: Locate vacuum leak and repair.
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One or more of your fuel injectors are leaking: Locate leaking injector(s) and replace.
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There is a hole or leak in the car's exhaust: Repair or replace exhaust as required.
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Engine makes a ticking noise:
Possible causes:
As soon as you start the engine, you hear a ticking noise from the engine. It sounds like a loud clock. The speed of the noise increases with an increase in engine speed. In fact, when you reach a particular speed, the noise is occurring so fast it seems that it is gone.
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The valves in your engine need to be adjusted: Adjust valves or replace hydraulic lifters as required.
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There is a lot of sludge in your engine that is stopping oil from circulating properly: Flush engine and replace oil and oil filter.
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The engine's valve lifters are collapsed: Replace valve lifters.
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One or more of the engine's valves are stuck: Remove valves and repair or replace valve guides and/or valves as required.
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Clicking noise from the transmission while in four wheel drive:
Possible causes:
Everything is fine until you shift into four-wheel drive and you hear a lot of clicking and clacking from the transmission. You may even feel the noise through the floor or through the gearshift. The noise goes away when you put the transmission back into two-wheel drive.
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The fluid level in your transfer case is low: Fill transfer case to proper level with the correct type fluid.
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The final drive chain in your transfer case is stretched or damaged: Replace transfer case chain.
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You have an internal problem in the transfer case: Overhaul or replace transfer case.
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Your front drive shaft or axle needs repair: Repair or replace front drive axles as required.
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Hissing, Whirring and Buzzing
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A hissing sound is heard from the engine:
Possible causes:
The engine may or may not seem to run fine. Normally, the hissing noise becomes apparent soon after the driver notices that the engine is not running properly. This problem can occur suddenly.
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The engine is overheating: Stop engine and determine cause of engine overheating.
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The exhaust system and/or catalytic converter is plugged: Replace catalytic converter and/or exhaust system parts as required.
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A vacuum line is disconnected: Locate and reconnect vacuum line.
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A vacuum device is leaking: Locate and replace leaking vacuum device.
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Whirring from the engine that gets worse as engine speed increases:
Possible causes:
Although the whirring noise is evident at all engine speeds, it is the change in volume as engine speed increases that make the noise most noticeable. The noise may or may not develop gradually or get worse over time.
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Low power steering fluid: Fill power steering fluid to proper level.
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The alternator bearings are bad: Replace alternator bearings or alternator assembly.
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A bad water pump: Replace water pump.
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A bad power steering pump: Replace power steering pump.
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A bad air conditioning compressor: Replace air conditioning compressor.
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Things you can hear are wrong with your car...
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Whirring from the front of the car that changes pitch with vehicle speed:
Possible causes:
Even though the noise is there at all vehicle speeds, it is the change in pitch as the car's speed changes that makes the noise most noticeable. Some problems will cause an extremely irritating sound while the car is moving at highway speeds. Some causes may or may not gradually develop, while others occur suddenly.
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Loose or worn wheel bearings: Adjust or replace wheel bearings as required.
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Worn universal joints: Replace universal joints.
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Damaged flywheel inspection cover plate.
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Loose fan shroud or bracket: Tighten or repair brackets as required.
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Faulty torque converter: Replace torque converter.
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There may be some internal transmission damage: Have transmission inspected and rebuilt or replaced if required.
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Differential unit needs lubricant: Fill differential to proper level with proper fluid type.
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The rubber of your tires may be too hard: Replace tires.
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You are using the wrong type of tire for the surface of the road: Use correct tire type.
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There is a buzzing noise from the transmission:
Possible causes:
You notice a buzzing noise from the car whenever you start to move forward or in reverse. The noise is not there when you have the car in park or neutral, and it seems to go away after the car has been driven a while or when you are moving at higher speeds. The problem seems to occur more regularly.
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The transmission's fluid level is low: Fill transmission fluid to proper level.
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The fluid in your transmission is contaminated: Flush transmission fluid and replace transmission filter.
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You have an internal problem in the transmission: Have transmission inspected and rebuilt or replaced if required.
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Your torque converter is bad: Replace torque converter.
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Radio or Horn Not Working
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Radio has a lot of static and sounds poorly:
Possible causes:
Every time you turn on the radio, you hear a lot of cracking, hissing and popping from the speakers. Even more so when you tune the radio to an AM station. The speakers work fine when you play a tape or CD.
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The antenna connection to the radio is loose or corroded: Clean and tighten antenna connections.
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The ground wire for the radio is loose or corroded: Clean and tighten radio ground wire.
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Noise from the engine's electrical system needs to be isolated from the car's body: Replace or install radio static suppressors.
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The antenna needs to be tuned (trimmed): Tune antenna.
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Radio doesn't work:
Possible causes:
You turn on the radio and there is no sound or lights.
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The fuse to the radio is blown: Replace fuse.
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The wiring to the radio is disconnected or damaged: Repair wiring as required.
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The radio is bad: Replace radio.
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Radio turns itself off and on:
Possible causes:
The radio turns itself on and off without rhyme or reason. When it works, it is fine and there are no unusual noises from the speakers. This may happen all of a sudden.
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The circuit breaker to the radio or in the radio is weak: Replace circuit breaker.
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The wiring to the radio is loose or damaged: Repair wiring as required.
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The radio is bad: Replace radio.
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Radio or trip computer won't work after you had service performed on your car:
Possible causes:
You took your car in for service, and things that worked before don't work now. This shouldn't happen unless you have an anti-theft radio or computer. These anti-theft items have protection circuits built into them to prevent thieves from being able to use them. If the work you had done on your car involved disconnecting the battery, the protection circuits locked out the usefulness of the radio and/or computer. This problem can also occur if you had your battery replaced or it died.
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You need the security code that should be included in your owner's manual along with the directions for inserting the code: Enter security code.
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If you don't have the security code, go to your dealership (must be an authorized dealer for your make and model of car). They can get the code and will be able to program the unit based on your car's identification (VIN) numbers: Obtain and enter security code.
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Horn works some of the time:
Possible causes:
Sometimes the horn works, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes pressing the horn pad in different places, or by applying different pressure will get it to sound.
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You have a bad horn switch (button) assembly: Replace horn button.
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Your horn relay is bad: Replace horn relay.
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The electrical wires that provide the ground circuit for the horn are damaged or loose: Clean and/or repair horn(s) ground wires.
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